Showing posts with label hurricane. Show all posts
Showing posts with label hurricane. Show all posts

Monday, August 22, 2011

HURRICANE PREPARATION TIPS

Another older article excerpted from Motor Boating Magazine but, still, good information.

*   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *

Hurricane and storm preparation begins well before a threat.

By Vincent Daniello

The southeastern United States isn't the only hurricane-prone region. A year prior to Andrew, the 1991 hurricane season was equally inactive, yet Hurricane Bob slammed boats ashore in an ill-prepared Rhode Island, and seemingly innocuous Hurricane Grace fizzled but then became part of the catastrophe known as the Halloween Storm to New Englanders or the Perfect Storm of book and movie infamy.

Whether dealing with hurricanes or early winter storms, three rules should guide storm prep. First, even "weak" storms can pack an unexpected wallop. Second, preparation must be organized in advance so it's simple and quick. Finally, local topography and just plain luck are deciding factors, but these can be played advantageously. Follow these tips to prepare.
Reduce Windage
Where Sensible Force increases by the square of the wind velocity. Five square yards of flat surface generate about 10 pounds of pressure in a 10-knot breeze. At 30 knots, the same 5 yards creates 90 pounds of force and at 100 knots, 1,000 pounds. Taking down canvas may well prevent extensive damage to far more than just that canvas in a direct hit from a Category 2 or better storm. But the odds of being in the usually small area of devastation are small. More likely, a near miss provides a day or two of strong wind and heavy rain with little damage — unless taking down that canvas left expensive electronics unnecessarily exposed to the weather. Either way, cover the helm with plastic or a tarp secured with rope and waterproof tape, but consider leaving helm enclosures erect.


Duplicate Lines 
Bypass the closest cleat or piling and choose an attachment point farther away so lines remain snug through an unusually high or low tide. Don't just double up lines. A cleat or piling is just as likely to fail as the line. A rule of thumb is that each line should have a mate running in the same direction but attached at a different place on both the boat and the dock.


There Are Never Too Many Lines or Fenders
One boat owner returned to his 65-footer after Hurricane Frances hit South Florida to find that every line failed due to chafe or broken cleats and pilings — except the very last line he put on. The boat was gently swaying in the breeze, held by a line tied through the bow pulpit anchor slot and around the concrete main dock.
Protect Lines From Chafe 
Used fire hose is the best chafe gear available — the double-jacketed rubber and canvas kind professional firefighters use, not cotton hose found in high-rise fire systems. Years ago, any local fire station had a roll or two of leaky hose they'd give away. Now it's available online for about $50 for 100 feet. Store-bought chafing gear is also a good choice, but rubber or plastic hose isn't going to hold up. For tricky chafe problems like concrete pilings, have thimbles spliced in line ends and use chain. When used around floating dock pilings, the chain rises and falls with the dock. Nylon lines stretch up to half their length, so use long lengths of chafing gear.


Protect Yourself 
Boats can be repaired or replaced; people can't. It's cliché but often forgotten in the rush to ready for a storm, particularly when preparations weren't made in advance. Allow time before the storm to evacuate or take care of house and family needs, which means at some point, whatever is done to the boat will have to be good enough. Take photos of preparations and of neighboring boats — insurance companies might require proof you didn't just leave the boat unprepared and hope for the best or that your neighbor did. Digital images are fine, but it's wise to take at least a few photos on film since they are much harder to alter, so they're better in court. Copy important boat papers, particularly insurance polices, and keep them somewhere safe — even mail them to family living elsewhere. When returning to the boat after the storm, watch for live electrical wires, exposed nails, splintered wood or jagged metal.
Luck
The damage from a hurricane can be quite sporadic. Boats or houses on one side of a canal might be destroyed while the other side sustained only moderate damage. Storms behave differently too. In Florida's 2004 hurricane season, Category 2 Hurricane Frances came ashore very slowly, so it did as much or more damage as Category 3 Hurricane Jeanne. The next year, Hurricane Wilma was expected to weaken to Category 1 status as it crossed Florida and interacted with a strong October cold front. But that cold air created severe thunderstorms around the eye of the storm that chewed across the state like teeth in a saw. Damage was much more widespread and, in many places, far more severe than from storms the previous year.
In 2003, Hurricane Isabel came ashore in North Carolina as a rapidly weakening Category 2 storm and became a tropical storm before reaching the Chesapeake Bay, but it took just the right track for winds to push high storm surges up the bay — even an 11-foot surge 100 miles up the Potomac River at Washington, D.C.
These examples show just how random storm damage can be and should serve as a reminder to never take the need for preparation lightly. When it comes to severe weather, bad luck happens, but good luck is made.

HURRICANE TACTICS

With all the current activity of this hurricane season, I thought this was good information from Motor Boating Magazine.  Apparently, it was copyrighted in 2004, but it is still very applicable today.

*   *   *   *   *   *   *   *   *

Midsummer is the time of year when tropical disturbances spring up in the Atlantic.  Here's how to protect your boat.

by Capt. Stuart Reininger


Hurricanes—as well as other cataclysmic events like tornadoes, earthquakes and volcanic eruptions—are Mother Nature's way of getting our undivided attention. There is one difference between hurricanes and these other disasters. In this era of global satellite communication, boat owners know a week or more in advance approximately when and where landfall might occur. With this kind of advance warning, there is no reason to be caught offshore, or ashore, in the path of a hurricane. Therefore, for recreational boaters, it makes little sense to discuss survival tactics for offshore; for all practical purposes, there are none.
A boater's best survival tactic is to get ashore, haul and secure the boat and head for higher ground. In those instances when hauling is impractical, there are measures you can take to protect your boat before you go home to watch the action on The Weather Channel. Never consider staying aboard and tending lines; that would be foolhardy.
The course of least resistance is to leave the boat where it is. If your marina, slip or mooring is well protected and not likely to be affected by a storm surge or high winds, this strategy could work. But it's not an option if your boat is on a floating dock in a tidal area. Why? The surge from a direct hit can raise water levels 12 feet or more with the tides, causing the docks to rise over their fixed pilings, which can impale the boat when the tide and surge drops. Also, many floating docks consist of countless bolted connections. When one part lets go, the rest can follow downwind like a crazed pattern of broken zippers, chewing up any vessels that are attached to them.
How about leaving the boat on a mooring? That's the next option. Sure, your boat will swing freely as the winds shift, and if the rode is chafe-protected, the odds are good that the boat will stay attached. But the mooring may not stay set when the big surge comes in. Most moorings are attached to short chain scope, just enough to compensate for a normal tide range. No matter the weight of the mooring, it's coming up with the surge since the boat's buoyancy prevails. Also, mooring fields are usually crowded. As soon as boats start breaking loose—and they will—they turn into floating battering rams.
If the boat is tied to a protected fixed dock throughout the storm, there's plenty that you can do before the high winds hit. For starters, remove everything that can possibly catch the breeze. All canvas—biminis, isinglass and cockpit covers and their supporting frameworks—must come off. Additionally, wind-catching extensions like outriggers, moveable antennas and even anchors should be stowed aboard or ashore. Remember, a 60-mph breeze can tip a Volkswagen over and a 100-mph wind can carry it away, but not make the payments.
All lines should be doubled and made of nylon, not Dacron and never polypropylene. Lines should be of the largest diameter possible. But they shouldn't be so thick that you can't wrap one around the base of a cleat and form two figure eights. This is important because the lines will serve to "sling the boat in the slip. Fore and aft spring lines should be made up to the outlying pilings—the longer and at the most acute angle, the better. Therefore, springs from the bow and stern cleats should be made up to pilings as far forward and aft as possible; the same holds true in slips with bollards or cleats on the dock. Bow and stern lines should have enough slack in them to compensate for the greatest expected tidal change and be long enough to keep the boat from hitting the adjoining dock/pilings. It's the springs that will do most of the work. Ideally, you'll need to pull a line in to step off the boat and onto the dock when you're done. The spring action of the lines should pull the boat back and allow it to sit suspended in the middle of the slip (you'll still need fender boards). Naturally, wherever a line touches the boat, dock or another line, it must be chafe-protected—split garden hose, leather or even rags that are taped or sewn in place are ideal.
Another option is to anchor out. I would avoid this option if there is the possibility of other boats being set down on you, or if there isn't enough room to deploy the required scope of eight-to-one or 10-to-one. While using two anchors with plenty of chain lead is best—Bahamian style or in tandem—don't forget chafe protection. Otherwise, anything the rode touches will chafe it through in no time once the storm arrives.
Finally, resist the urge to visit the boat during the storm. Make the best preparations beforehand and then plan to ride out the storm from home.
©Motor Boating Magazine, July 2004